To be Twelve

'The golden age of surfing is when you're twelve years old and the days last for fifty hours and every day the surf is glassy and huge and nobody else is out and you catch a hundred perfect rides in a session'.
The Life, Malcolm Knox.


I could take a heap of shots to capture this quote, but somehow, i know deep within, you all carry and hold onto something that resembles, that connects, thats holds onto this feeling, you've felt it at some stage in some form of a way, whether you surf or not. Its yours, keep it, guard it, lock it up, set if free, pass it onto your children, whatever you need...to keep it real.

I was twelve years old in 1991. The war in the middle east had started (as i knew it), and I thought that was it, i was soooo frightened that that was it. Scared out of my wits. But until then all I had known was of back yard national park secret tracks, bush turkey friends, sleeping out caves and the jabawokis that our fathers taunted us with to make us sleep. To be twelve years old again... what would i change, what would you...